Videos
Official how-to videos, assembly guides, and riding content from Plugged by 50CC.
Guides, parts, videos, support, and your referral program — everything for your dirt bike, all in one place.
Official how-to videos, assembly guides, and riding content from Plugged by 50CC.
Our #1 most asked question. Yes, you can add training wheels to your 50cc — here are the best options, plus a guide on setup.
Most training wheel kits fit CRF50/XR50 style frames — which is what most 50cc mini dirt bikes are based on, including the ones we sell. Check the listing to make sure it fits your model before ordering.
You'll typically get two wheel assemblies, mounting brackets, bolts, and hardware. Lay everything out and read the instructions once before you start. Most kits take about 10 minutes to install.
The brackets bolt to the rear axle area or the frame near the swingarm. Most kits use the existing rear axle bolt — you just slide the bracket on and tighten it down. No drilling required.
Bolt the training wheels onto the brackets. Tighten everything securely — these wheels take a beating.
This is the most important step. The training wheels should NOT be flat on the ground at all times. Set them about 1-2 inches off the ground when the bike is upright. They should only touch when the bike leans. This teaches balance while still preventing tip-overs.
As your rider builds confidence, raise the wheels a little higher each week. Eventually they'll be riding without the wheels ever touching the ground — that's when you know they're ready to take them off completely.
Training wheels are the move for younger or first-time riders. There's zero shame in it — it builds confidence fast. Most kids are ready to ride without them in 2-4 weeks. And you can always resell the kit to the next parent once your kid levels up.
Keep it under 10 mph with training wheels on. They're designed for learning, not speed. At higher speeds the bike can roll over the training wheel in a turn and make things worse. Low and slow while they learn.
Call or text us at (623) 320-8984 — we'll tell you exactly which one fits your bike and walk you through installation if you need it.
New to dirt bikes? Start here. We wrote these guides ourselves — everything we wish someone told us on day one.
So you just got your 50cc. You're hyped. We get it. But before you rip that pull cord, there's a few things you gotta know that'll make your first ride way smoother and way safer.
First things first — check the bike over. Make sure the handlebars are tight, the chain isn't loose, the tires have air, and the kill switch works. This takes 60 seconds and it could save you from a bad time.
Your 50cc is a pull-start 2-stroke engine. Here's how to fire it up every time:
Don't go full throttle right away. Seriously. Every single person who does that on their first ride ends up on the ground. Start slow in a flat, open area — a parking lot, a field, your backyard. Get used to how the throttle responds.
The throttle on a 50cc is a twist grip on the right handlebar. Twist it gently toward you to go. The more you twist, the faster you go. Let go and it returns to idle.
Making turns on a dirt bike is different from a bicycle. You lean into the turn with your body while keeping the bike slightly upright. Don't try to steer with the handlebars alone — that's how you lowside.
Start with wide, gentle turns. As you get more comfortable, you can tighten them up. Keep a steady throttle through the turn — don't chop it mid-turn or you'll lose balance.
That's it. Your first ride is about getting comfortable — not going fast. Speed comes with time. The riders who last are the ones who started slow and learned right.
We've sold hundreds of 50cc bikes. These are the tips we give every single customer before they ride off. Doesn't matter if you're 8 or 38 — these apply to everyone.
Not negotiable. Even at 25 mph, hitting the ground without a helmet can mess you up. Full-face MX helmets are best. We've got recommendations in the Safety Gear section of this manual.
Your backyard, a field, an empty lot. Don't start on hills, don't start on the street. Flat and open gives you room to learn without risk.
No one-handing it. No showing off for your friends on day one. Both hands, always. You need full control of the throttle and brakes.
Grabbing the front brake too hard is the number one way people go over the handlebars. Train yourself to use the rear brake first, then add front brake gently.
These bikes are built for dirt. The tires are knobby off-road tires — they don't grip well on pavement. Plus, if you drop it on concrete, you're scratching up your plastics. Dirt and grass are your friend.
A loose chain can slip off and lock up your rear wheel. A tight chain puts stress on the sprockets. You want about half an inch of play when you push down on the chain at the midpoint.
2-stroke fuel mix goes bad after about 30 days. If you're not riding for a while, either drain the tank or add fuel stabilizer. Old fuel is the number one reason bikes won't start.
The kill switch is your emergency stop. Know where it is and practice using it. If things ever feel out of control, hit the kill switch immediately — it cuts the engine instantly.
Don't try to keep up with someone who's been riding for years. Progress at your own pace. The goal is to ride again tomorrow, not to end up in the ER today.
At the end of the day, that's what this is about. You bought a dirt bike to have a good time. Don't stress about being perfect — just enjoy it. The skills come with seat time.
Your 50cc can handle more than you think. But different terrain requires different technique. Here's how to ride confidently on whatever surface you're on.
This is your best friend. Hard-packed dirt gives you the most traction and the most predictable ride. It's where you should learn and where you'll have the most fun. Keep a steady throttle, stay loose on the bars, and let the bike do its thing.
This is where it gets tricky. Loose dirt wants to grab your front wheel and pull it sideways. The key is to stay on the gas — not fast, but consistent. If you chop the throttle in sand, you'll stall or tip over. Keep your weight back slightly and let the rear tire dig in.
Gravel is slippery. Think of it like riding on marbles. Your knobby tires will grip better than street tires, but you still need to respect it. Avoid hard braking on gravel — you'll slide. Brake early and gently. And keep your turns wide.
Grass can be deceptively slippery, especially when wet. Your tires will spin more than you expect. Go slower than you think you need to. If it rained recently, stick to higher ground — low spots turn into mud pits that'll swallow your rear tire.
Going uphill: commit to the throttle. Don't hesitate halfway up or you'll stall and roll back. Stand on the pegs slightly and lean forward to keep weight over the front.
Going downhill: let gravity do the work. Stay off the throttle, use both brakes gently, and keep your weight back. Never ride a hill you're not confident you can handle.
We're in Tempe, so a lot of our riders are on desert terrain. Watch out for rocks hidden under dust, cactus (obviously), and hard caliche that looks like dirt but rides like concrete. Early morning and late afternoon are the best riding times — the Arizona sun at noon is brutal on you and the bike.
We want every customer to have a blast on their bike. We also want every customer to come back in one piece. Here are the rules we go over with everyone at pickup.
If your rider is under 12, an adult should be present at all times. These bikes can hit 25+ mph — that's fast enough to get hurt if something goes wrong. Kids should never ride unsupervised until they've demonstrated they can control the bike confidently.
The exhaust pipe gets extremely hot — it can cause serious burns on contact. Make sure riders know where the pipe is and to never touch it during or after riding. Wait at least 15 minutes after shutting off the bike before going near the exhaust area.
Every rider should know how to use the kill switch before their first ride. Practice it. If anything feels wrong — hit the kill switch, squeeze both brakes, and put your feet down.
Taking care of your bike is easy if you stay on top of it. Here's the maintenance schedule we recommend. Print this out, stick it on your garage wall, and check things off.
Your 50cc runs on a 2-stroke engine, which means you can't just pour straight gas in the tank. You need to mix gas with 2-stroke oil at the right ratio. Get this wrong and you'll damage the engine. Get it right and your bike runs like a dream.
For your 50cc, the mix is 25 parts gasoline to 1 part 2-stroke oil. Here's what that looks like in real life:
Your bike was running fine last week and now it won't start. Don't panic. 90% of the time it's one of these simple issues. Work through them in order.
Sounds obvious, but you'd be surprised. Make sure the kill switch is in the RUN position. If it's off, the engine won't fire no matter how many times you pull the cord.
Cold engine = choke ON (up). If the engine is already warm, choke should be OFF (down). Running with the choke in the wrong position is a common reason for no-starts.
If you pulled the cord 15+ times and smell gas strongly, the engine is flooded. Here's how to fix it:
A clogged air filter chokes the engine. Pull it out — if it's dark, oily, and gunked up, clean it or replace it. The engine needs clean air to run.
Call us. We troubleshoot these bikes every day and we'll figure it out with you over the phone. (623) 320-8984
Whether you're taking a break for a few weeks or storing it for months, a little prep keeps your bike ready to rip when you come back.
We don't really get "winter" in Tempe, but the summer heat can be rough on fuel and rubber. If your bike sits in a hot garage through July and August, the fuel will go bad even faster. Drain it. Your tires and plastics will appreciate being out of direct sunlight too.
Gear up before you ride. We carry helmets, goggles, and gloves right in our store — tap to shop direct from Plugged by 50CC.
We carry helmets, goggles, and gloves right in our store so you can grab everything in one spot. Chest protectors we don't stock yet — those Amazon links above are the ones we recommend.
Want more speed? These bolt-on upgrades will wake your 50cc up. Or skip the mods and go electric.
Start with exhaust + air filter — that combo alone can add 3-5 mph. Then upgrade the carb to match the new airflow. New spark plug should always be your first cheap upgrade.
Fresh rubber or bigger wheels — the right tires change everything about how your bike handles.
New plastics, fender kits, seats, and protection to keep your bike looking fresh.
LEDs make your bike look insane at night and help you see on evening rides.
Keep your chain tight and sprockets fresh. Worn chain = lost power and a safety risk.
Make your bike 100% yours. Here's exactly how to paint your 50cc plastics and frame like a pro.
Take off every plastic panel, fender, and side cover. Label each piece so you know where it goes back. Take photos before you start.
This step makes or breaks your paint job. Skip it and the paint will peel in a week.
Light sanding gives the primer something to grab onto.
Regular primer won't stick to plastic. You NEED plastic-specific adhesion promoter or primer.
This is where it gets fun. Spray your chosen color in thin, even passes.
Use masking tape for clean lines, stencils for logos, or freehand if you're bold.
This protects everything and gives you that glossy or matte finish.
Put it all back together. Reference your photos from Step 1.
Don't want to paint? Vinyl wrap is reversible, comes in wild colors and patterns, and protects the original plastic. Great if you want to switch up your look without committing.
Not sure what color to go with? Here are some fire combos to get you inspired.
Every bike from Plugged by 50CC comes backed by real support. We don't disappear after the sale — we're a text or call away.
30-day coverage on engine internals, transmission, and chain/sprocket assembly. If something fails under normal use, we fix or replace it.
CDI, stator, wiring harness, and kill switch covered for 30 days. No-start issues? Hit us up.
Structural frame and factory weld points covered for 30 days. Cracks from normal riding? We handle it.
Plastics, grips, tires, brake pads, and levers are wear items — not covered, but we stock replacements at fair prices.
Tempe, AZ
Text or call for pickup location details.
Send us a video of the issue — we'll diagnose over the phone and walk you through the fix. Most problems are 5-minute fixes.
Everything you'll ever need for your dirt bike is right here. Start with the assembly video below.
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Some people see the bikes, think "I could sell these myself," and go straight to the supplier. Here's why that's a headache you don't want:
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