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Official how-to videos, assembly guides, and riding content from Plugged by 50CC.
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Guides, parts, videos, support, and your referral program — everything for your dirt bike, all in one place.
Official how-to videos, assembly guides, and riding content from Plugged by 50CC.
Our #1 most asked question. Yes, you can add training wheels to your 50cc — here are the best options, plus a guide on setup.
Most training wheel kits fit CRF50/XR50 style frames — which is what most 50cc mini dirt bikes are based on, including the ones we sell. Check the listing to make sure it fits your model before ordering.
You'll typically get two wheel assemblies, mounting brackets, bolts, and hardware. Lay everything out and read the instructions once before you start. Most kits take about 10 minutes to install.
The brackets bolt to the rear axle area or the frame near the swingarm. Most kits use the existing rear axle bolt — you just slide the bracket on and tighten it down. No drilling required.
Bolt the training wheels onto the brackets. Tighten everything securely — these wheels take a beating.
This is the most important step. The training wheels should NOT be flat on the ground at all times. Set them about 1-2 inches off the ground when the bike is upright. They should only touch when the bike leans. This teaches balance while still preventing tip-overs.
As your rider builds confidence, raise the wheels a little higher each week. Eventually they'll be riding without the wheels ever touching the ground — that's when you know they're ready to take them off completely.
Training wheels are the move for younger or first-time riders. There's zero shame in it — it builds confidence fast. Most kids are ready to ride without them in 2-4 weeks. And you can always resell the kit to the next parent once your kid levels up.
Keep it under 10 mph with training wheels on. They're designed for learning, not speed. At higher speeds the bike can roll over the training wheel in a turn and make things worse. Low and slow while they learn.
Email us at pluggedbycc@gmail.com — send a photo of your bike and we'll tell you exactly which kit fits.
New to dirt bikes? Start here. We wrote these guides ourselves — everything we wish someone told us on day one.
So you just got your 50cc. You're hyped. We get it. But before you rip that pull cord, there's a few things you gotta know that'll make your first ride way smoother and way safer.
First things first — check the bike over. Make sure the handlebars are tight, the chain isn't loose, the tires have air, and the kill switch works. This takes 60 seconds and it could save you from a bad time.
Your 50cc is a pull-start 2-stroke engine. Here's how to fire it up every time:
Don't go full throttle right away. Seriously. Every single person who does that on their first ride ends up on the ground. Start slow in a flat, open area — a parking lot, a field, your backyard. Get used to how the throttle responds.
The throttle on a 50cc is a twist grip on the right handlebar. Twist it gently toward you to go. The more you twist, the faster you go. Let go and it returns to idle.
Making turns on a dirt bike is different from a bicycle. You lean into the turn with your body while keeping the bike slightly upright. Don't try to steer with the handlebars alone — that's how you lowside.
Start with wide, gentle turns. As you get more comfortable, you can tighten them up. Keep a steady throttle through the turn — don't chop it mid-turn or you'll lose balance.
That's it. Your first ride is about getting comfortable — not going fast. Speed comes with time. The riders who last are the ones who started slow and learned right.
We've sold hundreds of 50cc bikes. These are the tips we give every single customer before they ride off. Doesn't matter if you're 8 or 38 — these apply to everyone.
Not negotiable. Even at 25 mph, hitting the ground without a helmet can mess you up. Full-face MX helmets are best. We've got recommendations in the Safety Gear section of this manual.
Your backyard, a field, an empty lot. Don't start on hills, don't start on the street. Flat and open gives you room to learn without risk.
No one-handing it. No showing off for your friends on day one. Both hands, always. You need full control of the throttle and brakes.
Grabbing the front brake too hard is the number one way people go over the handlebars. Train yourself to use the rear brake first, then add front brake gently.
These bikes are built for dirt. The tires are knobby off-road tires — they don't grip well on pavement. Plus, if you drop it on concrete, you're scratching up your plastics. Dirt and grass are your friend.
A loose chain can slip off and lock up your rear wheel. A tight chain puts stress on the sprockets. You want about half an inch of play when you push down on the chain at the midpoint.
2-stroke fuel mix goes bad after about 30 days. If you're not riding for a while, either drain the tank or add fuel stabilizer. Old fuel is the number one reason bikes won't start.
The kill switch is your emergency stop. Know where it is and practice using it. If things ever feel out of control, hit the kill switch immediately — it cuts the engine instantly.
Don't try to keep up with someone who's been riding for years. Progress at your own pace. The goal is to ride again tomorrow, not to end up in the ER today.
At the end of the day, that's what this is about. You bought a dirt bike to have a good time. Don't stress about being perfect — just enjoy it. The skills come with seat time.
Your 50cc can handle more than you think. But different terrain requires different technique. Here's how to ride confidently on whatever surface you're on.
This is your best friend. Hard-packed dirt gives you the most traction and the most predictable ride. It's where you should learn and where you'll have the most fun. Keep a steady throttle, stay loose on the bars, and let the bike do its thing.
This is where it gets tricky. Loose dirt wants to grab your front wheel and pull it sideways. The key is to stay on the gas — not fast, but consistent. If you chop the throttle in sand, you'll stall or tip over. Keep your weight back slightly and let the rear tire dig in.
Gravel is slippery. Think of it like riding on marbles. Your knobby tires will grip better than street tires, but you still need to respect it. Avoid hard braking on gravel — you'll slide. Brake early and gently. And keep your turns wide.
Grass can be deceptively slippery, especially when wet. Your tires will spin more than you expect. Go slower than you think you need to. If it rained recently, stick to higher ground — low spots turn into mud pits that'll swallow your rear tire.
Going uphill: commit to the throttle. Don't hesitate halfway up or you'll stall and roll back. Stand on the pegs slightly and lean forward to keep weight over the front.
Going downhill: let gravity do the work. Stay off the throttle, use both brakes gently, and keep your weight back. Never ride a hill you're not confident you can handle.
We're in Tempe, so a lot of our riders are on desert terrain. Watch out for rocks hidden under dust, cactus (obviously), and hard caliche that looks like dirt but rides like concrete. Early morning and late afternoon are the best riding times — the Arizona sun at noon is brutal on you and the bike.
We want every customer to have a blast on their bike. We also want every customer to come back in one piece. Here are the rules we go over with everyone at pickup.
If your rider is under 12, an adult should be present at all times. These bikes can hit 25+ mph — that's fast enough to get hurt if something goes wrong. Kids should never ride unsupervised until they've demonstrated they can control the bike confidently.
The exhaust pipe gets extremely hot — it can cause serious burns on contact. Make sure riders know where the pipe is and to never touch it during or after riding. Wait at least 15 minutes after shutting off the bike before going near the exhaust area.
Every rider should know how to use the kill switch before their first ride. Practice it. If anything feels wrong — hit the kill switch, squeeze both brakes, and put your feet down.
Taking care of your bike is easy if you stay on top of it. Here's the maintenance schedule we recommend. Print this out, stick it on your garage wall, and check things off.
Your 50cc runs on a 2-stroke engine, which means you can't just pour straight gas in the tank. You need to mix gas with 2-stroke oil at the right ratio. Get this wrong and you'll damage the engine. Get it right and your bike runs like a dream.
For your 50cc, the mix is 25 parts gasoline to 1 part 2-stroke oil. Here's what that looks like in real life:
Your bike was running fine last week and now it won't start. Don't panic. 90% of the time it's one of these simple issues. Work through them in order.
Sounds obvious, but you'd be surprised. Make sure the kill switch is in the RUN position. If it's off, the engine won't fire no matter how many times you pull the cord.
Cold engine = choke ON (up). If the engine is already warm, choke should be OFF (down). Running with the choke in the wrong position is a common reason for no-starts.
If you pulled the cord 15+ times and smell gas strongly, the engine is flooded. Here's how to fix it:
A clogged air filter chokes the engine. Pull it out — if it's dark, oily, and gunked up, clean it or replace it. The engine needs clean air to run.
Email us a short video of what's happening to pluggedbycc@gmail.com — we troubleshoot these bikes every day and we'll figure it out.
Whether you're taking a break for a few weeks or storing it for months, a little prep keeps your bike ready to rip when you come back.
We don't really get "winter" in Tempe, but the summer heat can be rough on fuel and rubber. If your bike sits in a hot garage through July and August, the fuel will go bad even faster. Drain it. Your tires and plastics will appreciate being out of direct sunlight too.
Gear up before you ride. We carry helmets, goggles, and gloves right in our store — tap to shop direct from Plugged by 50CC.
We carry helmets, goggles, and gloves right in our store so you can grab everything in one spot. Chest protectors we don't stock yet — those Amazon links above are the ones we recommend.
Full-size electric dirt bike for teens & adults — no gas, no mixing fuel. Powerful, quiet, and built for bigger riders.
The electric dirt bike makes an insane birthday or holiday gift for teens. No gas smell, way easier for parents to deal with. One-tap text to send a hint:
💬 Text a Friend About This BikeEverything you need to customize your 50cc — performance parts, wheels, plastics, lighting, and drivetrain.
Start with exhaust + air filter — that combo alone can add 3-5 mph. Then upgrade the carb to match the new airflow. New spark plug should always be your first cheap upgrade.
Design your dream build, create your number plate, build your rider card, and unlock achievements as you ride.
Ready to make it official? Here's the full 8-step DIY paint guide.
Take off every plastic panel, fender, and side cover. Label each piece so you know where it goes back. Take photos before you start.
This step makes or breaks your paint job. Skip it and the paint will peel in a week.
Light sanding gives the primer something to grab onto.
Regular primer won't stick to plastic. You NEED plastic-specific adhesion promoter or primer.
This is where it gets fun. Spray your chosen color in thin, even passes.
Use masking tape for clean lines, stencils for logos, or freehand if you're bold.
This protects everything and gives you that glossy or matte finish.
Put it all back together. Reference your photos from Step 1.
Don't want to paint? Vinyl wrap is reversible, comes in wild colors and patterns, and protects the original plastic. Great if you want to switch up your look without committing.
Everything you need to ride safe, look fresh, and get more out of your bike.
Different color? Bigger size for a sibling? We got you. Every bike comes fully assembled, tested, and ready to ride.
Best birthday or Christmas gift ever. We'll wrap it, include a bow, and deliver it ready to ride. Text us to set it up.
Text to arrange a gift →We always recommend full gear, especially for younger riders.
Got an issue with your bike? Here's exactly how this works.
We're the connection between you and the manufacturer. When something goes wrong, you don't have to figure it out alone — you send us the video, we take it from there. We forward it to the manufacturer, they identify the part, and they ship it to you directly.
That's the real process. We're not a repair shop — we're your advocate on the other end.
Most people selling on Facebook Marketplace and OfferUp take your money and you never hear from them again. No instructions. No support. Nothing.
We built this entire app for you — assembly videos, riding guides, mechanic tips, spare parts info, common fixes, safety gear, everything. That's not something you get from a private seller. That's us going way above and beyond because we actually care about the people we sell to.
If you're ever stuck, the answer is probably already somewhere in this app. Look around — we put in the work so you don't have to figure it out alone.
Show us what's happening — whatever is broken, not working, or looks off. Keep it under 60 seconds. Put your name and the issue in the subject line.
pluggedbycc@gmail.comWe send your video directly to the Chinese manufacturer. They review it, identify exactly what part failed or is missing, and handle it from their end.
The manufacturer ships the replacement part directly to you. No guessing, no wrong parts — they built the bike, they know exactly what fits.
These are the only parts we carry. If you need something else, you'll need to source it yourself — Amazon, eBay, or a local shop. Once the bike leaves our hands, we have no way of knowing how it was transported, assembled, or used, so we can only speak to what we sell.
These are unassembled 50cc mini moto kits. Assembly, safe operation, and compliance with local laws is the buyer's responsibility. Plugged by 50CC is a private reseller — not the manufacturer. We are not liable for injury, property damage, or issues arising from assembly, misuse, modifications, or normal wear. Off-road only. Not street legal.
Most common issues are easy fixes you can do yourself in 5 minutes.
This is the #1 issue we see. 9 out of 10 times it's one of these things:
Step 1 — Check the basics:
• Kill switch — Make sure it's in the ON position. It's the red toggle on the handlebars. If it's flipped to OFF, the engine won't fire no matter what.
• Fuel valve — Find the petcock on the bottom of the gas tank. Turn it to ON so fuel flows to the carburetor.
• Choke — For cold starts, pull the choke lever OUT (usually on the left side of the carb). This enriches the fuel mix so the engine starts easier. Push it back IN after the engine warms up for 30-60 seconds.
Step 2 — Check your fuel:
• Use fresh 87 octane gas mixed 25:1 with 2-stroke oil. That's about 5 oz of oil per gallon of gas.
• If the gas has been sitting for more than 2 weeks, drain it and mix fresh. Old gas is the single most common cause of no-start.
• Never use pure gas without oil — it will destroy the engine.
Step 3 — Try the pull start properly:
• Pull the cord fast and firm — don't baby it. A slow pull won't generate enough spark.
• If it doesn't start after 5-6 pulls, STOP. You may be flooding the engine.
• Wait 2 full minutes, then try again without choke. If you smell gas, it's flooded — wait longer.
Still nothing?
Check the spark plug — pull it out and look at the tip. If it's wet and black, it's fouled. Wipe it dry or replace it ($8 on Amazon — NGK BPR7HS). If it's dry, fuel isn't reaching the engine — check your fuel line and carb for clogs. If you're still stuck, email us a video at pluggedbycc@gmail.com.
If the bike starts but stalls after a few seconds, it's almost always a fuel delivery problem.
Most likely cause — Bad gas:
• Drain all the old gas from the tank completely.
• Drain the carb too — there's a small screw on the bottom of the carburetor bowl. Unscrew it and let the old fuel drip out into a rag.
• Fill with fresh 87 octane mixed 25:1 with 2-stroke oil. Try starting again.
If fresh gas doesn't fix it — Carb is clogged:
• Gently tap the side of the carburetor bowl with the handle of a screwdriver. This can unstick a float that's stuck in the closed position.
• If tapping doesn't work, the carb jets are likely clogged. You'll need to remove the carb and spray carb cleaner through all the jets and passages.
• A can of carb cleaner is $5-8 at any auto parts store. Spray it through every hole you can find on the carb.
Other things to check:
• Fuel line — Make sure it's not kinked or cracked. Fuel should flow freely from tank to carb.
• Air filter — A dirty or oil-soaked air filter can choke the engine. Pull it out and clean it, or ride without it briefly to test.
• Choke position — If you left the choke ON after the engine warmed up, it'll run rich and stall. Push choke IN once the engine is warm.
Chains come off when they're too loose. Here's how to fix it and prevent it from happening again.
Putting the chain back on:
• Turn off the bike and let the engine cool if it's been running.
• Loop the chain back onto the rear sprocket (the big gear on the back wheel) first.
• Then guide it onto the front sprocket (small gear near the engine).
• Slowly rotate the rear wheel by hand to make sure the chain seats properly on both sprockets.
Adjusting chain tension (important!):
• The chain should have about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of up-and-down play at the midpoint between the two sprockets.
• To tighten: loosen the rear axle bolts on both sides, then turn the chain tensioner bolts (on both sides of the swingarm) equally to push the rear wheel back.
• Tighten both sides evenly — if one side is tighter than the other, the wheel will be crooked and the chain will come off again.
• Once tension is right, re-tighten the rear axle bolts firmly.
Pro tip: Check chain tension before every ride. It takes 10 seconds. A loose chain can fly off and damage the engine case or lock up the rear wheel.
Soft brakes usually just need a quick cable adjustment. Here's the full process:
Quick adjustment (try this first):
• Find the brake cable adjuster — it's the knurled barrel-shaped nut where the cable meets the brake lever on the handlebars.
• Turn it counter-clockwise to tighten the cable. This pulls the brake pads closer to the disc or drum.
• Test the lever — you should feel firm resistance about halfway through the pull. If the lever touches the handlebar, keep adjusting.
If adjustment doesn't help — Check the pads:
• Look at the brake pads through the caliper. If the pad material is thin (less than 2mm), they need replacing.
• Replacement brake pads are $8-15 on Amazon. Search for your specific bike model.
• New pads need a "break-in" period — ride gently for the first 10 minutes, applying brakes gradually to seat them.
For disc brakes specifically:
• Check that the brake disc isn't bent or warped. Spin the wheel and watch the disc — if it wobbles, it needs straightening or replacing.
• Make sure the caliper mounting bolts are tight. A loose caliper will feel spongy even with good pads.
Old gas is the #1 killer of small engines. Gas starts going bad after just 2 weeks, especially in Arizona heat.
Step 1 — Drain everything:
• Turn the fuel valve OFF.
• Disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor and drain the tank into a container. Dispose of old gas properly — don't pour it on the ground.
• Open the carb drain screw (small screw on the bottom of the carb bowl) and let all the old fuel drip out.
Step 2 — Mix fresh fuel:
• Use regular 87 octane gasoline from any gas station.
• Mix at 25:1 ratio — that's 5.1 oz of 2-stroke oil per 1 gallon of gas.
• Pour the oil into the gas can first, then add the gas. The pouring action mixes it for you.
• Shake the can gently to make sure it's fully mixed.
Step 3 — Won't idle fix:
• If the bike starts but won't stay running without throttle, the idle screw needs adjusting.
• Find the idle screw on the carburetor (usually a flathead screw on the side). Turn it clockwise in small increments (1/4 turn at a time) to raise the idle speed.
• The engine should idle at a steady hum without the throttle — not too fast, not dying.
Prevention: Only mix what you'll use in the next 1-2 weeks. If the bike is going to sit for a while, drain the fuel completely or add fuel stabilizer. In Arizona summer heat, gas goes bad even faster.
All products sold by Plugged by 50CC are sold as unassembled mini moto kits. The buyer is solely responsible for assembly, inspection, maintenance, and safe operation of the product. Plugged by 50CC is not responsible for any personal injury, property damage, or any other damages resulting from the use, assembly, or operation of our products. By purchasing, you accept full responsibility for the proper assembly and safe use of your mini moto kit. Our 1-year warranty is limited to replacement of parts determined to be defective due to manufacturer error and does not cover damage resulting from improper assembly, misuse, modifications, accidents, normal wear and tear, or failure to follow assembly instructions. Riders should always wear appropriate safety gear including a helmet, goggles, gloves, and protective clothing. These products are not street legal and should only be operated on private property with the owner's permission.
Everything you'll ever need for your dirt bike is right here. Start with the assembly video below.
We're a private mini moto club — think of us like an affiliate seller on Facebook Marketplace, OfferUp, and Craigslist. Millions of people sell privately every day. We source unassembled 50cc kits and connect riders with them. We didn't build the bike. Off-road only. Not street legal. Assembly is on you. Private party sale. All sales final. Buying = agreeing to all terms on the Support tab.
A quick review helps other families find us. Takes 30 seconds — tap where you bought yours.
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Cash sent to you same day. Apple Pay, CashApp, Zelle, or in hand.
Some people see the bikes, think "I could sell these myself," and go straight to the supplier. Here's why that's a headache you don't want:
Screenshot and show friends. Scans straight to pluggedby50cc.com